The debate, at which CRED founder Greg Valerio was a key contributor, featured voices from all over the industry, including campaigners, charities, jewellers, miners and the Fairtrade Foundation. Ute's article is a great report of the event, but goes on to describe something of her journey to become an ethical jeweller.
I was appalled to learn about the severe social or
environmental damage gold and silver mining causes; the
extensive use of toxic chemicals such as cyanide, mercury and
arsenic contaminating nearby soil and waterways which can
work their way into the food chain and sicken people and
animals for generations. The displacement of local inhabitants
to make room for mines so massive that apparently some
can be seen from space. If not responsibly mined these vast
areas remain toxic wastelands.
The scale of the damage is illustrated by the more fathomable
example of a single gold wedding ring which leaves in its wake
at least 20 tons of mine waste laced with toxic chemicals.
It's a great introduction to the challenges of bringing an ethical approach into artisanal jewellery production, but also what is possible. Her research into environmentally sustainable workshop practices is not only informative, but an inspiration to us and to all jewellers seeking an ethical approach in what they do.
Since then I have found more useful information on less toxic
studio materials and practices. Including less toxic alternatives
for resin as well as for pickle by using citric acid and rather
than oxidising silver with liver of sulphur – eggs (free range,
from the local farmers’ market, of course) work just as well.
The article ends with the outline of a roadmap for the industry, in seeking to bring an ethical approach to the mainstream jewellery market. Here at CRED we love Ute's ideas, her drive and ambition, and we look forward to working with her, with The Goldsmith, and with the rest of the industry in bringing ethical jewellery to the mainstream.
You can download the full article here. Ute's website also includes links to resources on ethical jewellery issues, for producers and consumers alike.