O so charming

Charm necklaces are a piece of jewellery that can never go out of fashion.  So simply to wear they can be worn alone or stacked to completely change or give an outfit that little something it needed. 

Treasured charms have been hanging around the necks of models and celebrities for years.  And images of them have been flowing back into our magazines we thought we would show you some of Cred’s favourite pieces. 



These Oria Charm necklaces are hand made in London from sterling sliver. All Oria charms are available from Cred.

The piece below is from Cred's own Penelope Collection designed by Annabel Panes. The collection is inspired by the cocktail ladies of the 1930's and specifically Annabel's Grandmother. However they have a modern twist giving the pieces timeless glamour. Each of the 13 pieces are made from Oro Verde Fair Trade white gold. You will be spoilt for choice.


Oro Verde Mine Visit 2010 - Day Three

Day Three - Up River
In the morning we meet up with the  Fairtrade Fairmined auditing team who were undertaking the audit of the communities for certification against the new Ecological Fairtrade Fairmined standard. One of the challenges in the region is the ongoing gorilla activity posing a risk of kidnaping. Each time we visit we have to wait for the all clear to head up river. Eventually we all get the go ahead.



Ploughing up river for two hours through little rapids in the middle of the rainforest, I am in awe of the beauty and epic scale of the rainforest.

El Paso on the Candoto River
As we arrive at El Paso we are welcomed by the children and climb up the riverbank.We walk out into the forest to find one of the small mines. The Oro Verde miners do not use chemicals, the only technology they have is a water pump to wash the soil over a mesh which catches the gold. It is extremely physical work, moving rocks by hand in the sun with a humidity level similar to a steam room. The husband and wife we meet work the concession together and find 0.5g to 1g a week. Selling to Oro Verde means that they are guaranteed a good price and an extra ecological premium for mining without chemicals and reforesting as they go.

In the evening one of the community leaders talked to me about the pressures on the communities to lease their concessions to medium and large operations. The gold rush is in full swing and various companies are in a land grab to capitalise on the high commodity prices. The communities can earn a small percentage from releasing the land, the short term gain is very attractive and even the ‘Oro Verde’ miners are tempted. They want to mine and have their lands mined in a positive way but, like all of us, they want to provide for their families as best as they can.
Others argue that, although the cash is good, the mechanised mining causes devastation that lasts generations through the use of toxic chemicals and the stripping hectares of forest. As soon as the gold is gone so are the companies and with no thought of environmental management or the sustainability of the communities. They argue that the best way to provide for their children is to protect the environment for them, I hope that argument wins.

Oro Verde Mine Visit 2010 - Day Two

Day two –  The Choco.
The airplane takes off in the rain and climbs surrounded by clouds. The city below is in soft focus with the rain as we fly over the mountains and head towards Quibdo.

Every so often the clouds break a little and the canopy of the rainforest comes into view, it stretches from horizon to horizon. It is majestic and it is impossible not to be awestruck. The Choco is recognised as part of 34 biodiversity hotspots worldwide. 
Collectively, these hotspots contain more than 50% of the world's plant species and 77% of all terrestrial vertebrate species. Our jewellery invests in protecting this biodiversity alongside paying a fair price.

We land in Quibdo and grab a taxi to the bus station. We discover there is a public holiday, one of 17 each year, and our bus is now not going to our destination, Candoto, but a near by town. 

Three hours later we arrive in Istamina and set about getting transport on to Candoto. The only willing driver crammed the four of us and luggage into his moto taxi and we set off. We turned a corner and discovered the reason behind the reluctance; the fiesta had closed the main road while the towns' pageant passed.

Istamina festival
A couple of hours and beers later we were on our way. The three wheeled moto taxi lurched impossibly along the pitch black dirt road and I found myself contemplating how I could jump clear if we rolled over. We reached Candoto and the hotel late.

Oro Verde Mine Visit 2010

Last month Christian went on his annual visit to see the Oro Verde miners in Colombia. We are going to post his diary here over the next couple of weeks so you can see exactly how far we travel to source our Fairtrade metals and exactly where the gold and platinum in our jewellery comes from.


Day one – Medellin.

Clara and Juango
I spent the first day catching up with some friends, Clara and Jaungo. Clara was the director of Oro Verde until she struck out as a sustainability consultant 2 months ago. We took a tour of the city in the rain, Juango giving a running commentary of the prestigious buildings and developments and ‘bad’ area’s as we criss-crossed from mountain to mountain.

We turned a corner into an area Juango tells me he calls it Sad Town because it has been left alone while the blocks next to it have been developed.

“Here you can get any mechanical work you need done, as long as you don’t want a warranty. One guy rolls up with a cart to change your tyres, while another fetches a cart with a winch to take your engine out, they are all independent but working together trying to scratch a living” 
One of the Sad town mobile mechanic carts

We drove around sad town as night set in and the absence of the days’ hustle and bustle revealed the makeshift shelters of the street people. The contrast of the haves and have-nots, good area’s and bad areas is clear.
Leaving Sad town

Colombia is a country of contrasts, from mountain cities to tropical ports and, for me tomorrow, rainforest towns and gold mining communities.

The dark side of diamonds


Below is a recent article from the Daily Mail, its shows just how bad the conditions around diamonds can be and what drives us at Cred to do things differently and in a more positive way. 

Our aim is to have a truly ‘pure’ diamond, certified Fair Trade, from artisanal sources, that will deliver real economic justice to those involved in its production. Unfortunately this is not currently a reality, but as a step on the journey we only source Diamonds that go beyond the basic Kimberly certification of 'confict-free' and that we can trace from mine to shine.

A great example of this is our Brilliant Open Solitaire or any other ring from our Eden Engagement collection. 


Mugabe's darkest secret: An £800bn blood diamond mine he's running with China's Red Army 
http://www.dailymail.co.uk <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/

By Andrew Malone <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/search.html?s=y&authornamef=Andrew+Malone
18th September 2010 

Dictator: Robert Mugabe
Across a remote tract of southern Africa, naturally –fortified by mountains and patrolled by hundreds of –soldiers with dogs trained to tear intruders apart, teams of mining experts are hard at work.

Yet they are not speakers of Shona, the native language of this land on the border between Zimbabwe and Mozambique. No, thousands of miles from home, under a broiling African sun, these slim, pale-skinned figures are members of the Chinese military.

Working alongside henchmen from one of –Africa's most murderous regimes - headed by Robert Mugabe - the Chinese are here to –oversee Beijing's investment in the world's most controversial commodity: blood diamonds.

High-ranking officials of China's People's –Liberation Army, they have been striving to escape detection for their role in this blood-thirsty - but hugely lucrative - trade.

For here, carved out of the African bush, is a runway big enough for huge cargo planes. There is also sophisticated radar equipment, a fully-operational control tower and comfortable –barracks for the Chinese officials overseeing the entire operation.

And twice a week, its wings wobbling on waves of thermals rising from this scorching corner of the continent, an Antonov An-12 cargo plane can be heard droning towards the airstrip.

The Antonov - developed by the Soviets and, like so much else, copied by the Chinese and manufactured en masse - carries men and equipment from a secret military airbase –outside Zimbabwe's capital Harare, whose job is to tear the gems from the earth. It deposits between eight and ten Chinese military officials, who work overseeing members of the Zimbabwean military, as well as local labour who work at gunpoint in slave conditions. 

The departing flights leave with rough, uncut diamonds worth millions.

No flight plans are filed and there are no records of these trips. Such secrecy - and sophisticated organisation - is understandable. This is the centre of diamond fever, and the scene of the biggest diamond heist in history.

Here, at the Marange diamond fields in the far southeast of Zimbabwe, where four planes bound direct for China have thundered out of the secret bush runway already this year, –astonishing natural wealth has been found in the soil. Indeed, so common are diamonds here that, for many years, local children used the 'hard stones' in catapults to hunt birds, not realising that they were firing unimaginable riches into the sky.

But stomach-gnawing poverty - life expectancy here has halved to just 35 since Mugabe came to power in 1980 - led to a local diamond rush as news spread that riches were to be found. 

Professionals such as doctors, nurses, teachers and plumbers as well as other workers all descended on the fields four years ago, hoping to find enough stones in the earth to survive as the country's currency collapsed, with worthless notes blowing through the streets.
Searching for hope: Zimbabweans rummage through the dirt for diamonds before Mr Mugabe found out about mine. Now the area is considered a military zone - with people beaten to death who enter
Yet all their hopes were crushed when Robert Gabriel Mugabe, the 86-year-old Zimbabwean president, and his ruling military junta, also came to hear of the rumours of such wealth.

Mugabe's military - many of whom have been given training in torture techniques in China - reacted in characteristically brutal fashion, shooting hundreds of people, setting Alsatian dogs on others and raping women and children.

They wanted the diamonds for themselves. The carnage had the desired effect: the poor and wretched were driven from the fields, leaving the way clear for Zimbabwe's military chiefs to move in.

Today, the fields are a military zone - and anyone caught there faces being beaten to death.

The reason for the secrecy became apparent during an undercover –investigation at the fields, where I found conclusive evidence of –collusion between China and Mugabe.
In an official - but highly-confidential - agreement between the two countries, the Chinese People's –Liberation Army and Mugabe's –military chiefs are plundering this diamond find, believed to be the –biggest in the history of the world and worth an estimated £800 billion.

So vast are the riches that diamond experts believe the gems from Marange - in a country of less than ten million people - could account for more than a quarter of all –diamonds mined around the globe, and could even trigger a massive slump in diamond prices if the stones come on the market and cause a glut.

Not that the people of Zimbabwe will see any of these riches. Instead, in return for the gems, the Chinese are paying Mugabe's thugs in guns and ammunition, ensuring his regime can stay in power despite –international condemnation of his atrocities.

The two countries - both with appalling human-rights records - are involved in a vile scramble for loot at Marange, and there is clear –evidence that Mugabe and his –generals are also personally stealing millions from the trade. 

Secret documents obtained by the Mail reveal that the company given the rights to the diamond fields -called Mbada Diamond Company - is fronted by Mugabe's trusted former personal helicopter pilot, with –Chinese military officials as silent partners. 

The documents reveal that the pilot - Robert Mhlanga, who has no experience of mining - was personally appointed by Mugabe, with Chinese partners named as Deng Hongyan, Zhang Shibin, Zhang Hui, Jiang Zhaoyao and Cheng Qins. With military camps set up around the perimeter, and three separate fences erected to keep out smugglers and spies, local villagers told me appalling stories of how they have been driven from the land at gunpoint.

Soldiers set their dogs on one girl, who was mauled and killed in front of her parents. The military said this was a warning to others to keep away from the fields; at least seven people caught near the fields were killed by the military in the last month alone and their bodies dumped.

Lucky Sibanda, a local man, showed me the wounds on his back where he was attacked by dogs after the –military caught him by the fields. 'These Chinese men have hard hearts,' he said. 'They are taking away diamonds that could save this country. I hate them.'  

The disclosures make a mockery of the decision by the Kimberley –Process - the diamond watchdog set up in the wake of the diamond war in Sierra Leone - to allow Mugabe to sell gems from Marange - which is in the –remotest, most inaccessible part of his impoverished nation.

And it comes as the issue is once again in the spotlight following –supermodel Naomi Campbell's –controversial appearance at the war-crimes trial of Charles Taylor, the cannibal warlord who funded the bloodshed and slaughter of more than 200,000 people in Sierra Leone in a battle over diamonds.

For, while Mugabe insists these –diamonds will be for benefit of his people, the truth is they are already being used to fund a war chest designed to keep him and his generals in power, while millions more are siphoned into their –personal accounts.
That much was made clear to me during a chilling conversation I had as night fell this week near the –diamond fields.

There, at a meeting in a car on deserted waste ground - set up after tortuous negotiations through a go-between - one of Mugabe's most senior intelligence chiefs rubbed his hands with glee at the deal with the Chinese, and told me the weapons were being handed out to the –military in preparation for a brutal new crackdown against opponents.

As well as paying a share of the –diamond profits to Mugabe's regime, he confirmed that China has agreed to supply military hardware to Zimbabwe. 
'It is a government-to-government deal,' the official said. 'It has been signed at the highest level. 

'There is a memorandum of understanding between China and –Zimbabwe - Beijing supplies –weapons to us, and we allow them to mine diamonds.' 

Mocking the 'monkeys in the West' who have been outraged by Mugabe's brutality, my source - a cold-hearted killer - predicted that the diamond deal with Beijing would mean they could stay in power indefinitely.

'You can write 1,000 stories, and print them 1,000 times, but it won't make any difference,' smirked the official. 'We have all the diamonds, so we have all the weapons - and we will kill anyone who tries to take anything from us.' 

During an hour-long –conversation, the intelligence source - whose identity I know, but who insisted I do not use his name or rank - also admitted that, without the Chinese pact, the ruling junta would have been driven from power. 'But now we have all the guns we need,' he said.

Of course, –Zimbabwe is not Sierra Leone, where Taylor's forces drove civilians from diamond fields there, brutally cutting off the arms of thousand of –people. Mugabe, who is reported to be in poor health, is far too clever for that.

Never killing so many, or so openly, that the West would be forced to intervene, he has become Africa's second-longest-serving leader by quietly –terrorising the –population, killing opponents and using his dreaded secret police, rather than wholesale slaughtering - with the exception of 25,000 members of the Ndebele tribe he murdered in the Eighties. 
War crimes: Cannibal warlord Charles Taylor helped fund the bloodshed and slaughter of 200,000 in Sierra Leone in a battle over diamonds.
The country is run as a personal fiefdom for Mugabe and his –military junta, all of whom live in palatial homes and expect a personal cut from every aspect of the country's wealth - from road 'tolls' raising millions and going to their –personal accounts, to companies set up to capitalise on the diamond find.

'Just because they are crooks, doesn't mean they aren't clever crooks,' says one veteran –underground Zimbabwe journalist. 'These guys were trained by the North Koreans and at Nanking –Military Academy in China. They are thugs, but smart - that's why they are so scary.' 

To protect their wealth and grip on power, the junta runs three –different intelligence services, –hundreds of thousands strong. Countless opposition politicians have been murdered, not to mention hundreds of white farmers.

A human rights activist was jailed and tortured last month for giving Kimberley Process officials details of abuses at the fields, including the torture and murder of gwejas - –illegal miners caught in the area.

The arms-for-diamonds deal between Zimbabwe and China was set up by General Constantine –Chiwenga, a brutal killer and one of the so-called 'dirty half-dozen' –military chiefs who run the country for Mugabe.

Believing the Chinese would be 'more disciplined' in extracting diamonds, Chiwenga struck the deal with Beijing during a trip to China last year in order to control sales for his personal benefit and that of Mugabe, who has more than £1.5 billion hidden in secret Asian bank accounts.

Already, an operation is underway to hide the bloodshed and abuses at Marange ahead of a series of –visits planned by Kimberley –Monitors to decide whether –diamond sales should continue. 

Mocking those 'fools', my source - who reports directly to Chiwenga - sniggered that they would just show officials 'the good bits' and would make sure that any traces of brutality were hidden.

Harare: A port close to the city ships soil from the Marange region to China, where it is processed for diamonds
Asked if he believed these stones are 'blood diamonds', the thug laughed again. 'This is a military operation, not a civilian operation, and that means that of course they are. Are you a fool?' 

Not that a worldwide ban on –Zimbabwean stones would stop the flow of diamonds out of Marange. Gripped by diamond fever, even these Chinese –communists are trying to make money on the side.

I watched as two Chinese officials approached illegal diamond –smugglers at a notorious trading point just outside the Marange perimeter. They left after –purchasing uncut gems for their own private sales.

As well as flying diamonds out directly from Marange, other shipments are taken out via a military base near Harare, while lorry loads of soil from the –diamond fields are trucked overland to a port in Mozambique, and then shipped for processing on Chinese soil.

Once the diamonds are cut, the best stones for rings and other –jewellery are sold back into the –diamond network through dealers in India and the Middle East. –Commercial grade stones are used in industry, helping fuel China's rise as a superpower.

And, at a town called Manica, just over the border in Mozambique, Chinese and Lebanese dealers run an international smuggling hub, mopping up any diamonds being sold by the few gwejas still brave enough to risk their lives at  the field.

During a visit to one infamous Lebanese dealer, who was –surrounded by armed guards, I was told simply: 'I don't want to talk. If you have diamonds, show me them. If you don't have any, leave. Now.' 

My gruesome military source was correct: it is impossible to police these diamonds, whatever the Kimberley Process decides. 

Borders are porous; officials are corrupt. I was offered blood –diamonds within ten minutes of arriving in Manica.

Perhaps now is the time for a new ethical debate: should diamonds now forever be associated with, quite literally, having blood on one's hands? 

Only consumers can decide; –Zimbabwe's dead can't.

Choosing Your Diamond - How to know the Quality of what you are buying

Diamonds are the hardest natural substance knows to the man, it has the simplest chemical composition being crystallized carbon.
They are the most highly value of gemstones. This is because diamonds are found deep below the surface of the earth, approximately 250 tones of ore must be mined to produce a one carat polished gem-quality gemstone.

Diamonds are cut with great precision and delicacy, and come in various colours, many shapes, quality and prices. It takes skilled craftsmen to transform a rough diamond.

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF A DIAMOND: THE 4C’s.


To understand the visual appeal of Diamonds we are going to consider De Beers famous 4C’s by which the value and quality of a diamond is determined depending on the combination of these factors.

These factors are:

•    Carat – weight.
•    Colour.
•    Clarity.
•    Cut.

* Some jewelers in the Diamond industry talk about a Fifth C (5C’s) called    “Certificates”. This is a report produced by a professional describing the characteristics of the stone.

CARAT – WEIGHT:

Diamonds are weighted in metric carats:

    1 carat = 200 milligrams = 0.2 g.
    0.01 ct or carat = one hundredth of a carat

The carat is a unit of weight, not size. It is the most obvious factor in determining the value of a diamond.

To make an assessment of the weight there are various ways do this.  In theory a modern brilliant-cut Diamonds have certain standard proportions, so by measuring the diameter of the stone at the girdle an estimate of weight may be arrived at.
Of course, if you can also measure the depth of a diamond you can work out a more precise weight.


COLOUR:

Colour is the most important characteristic of a gemstone and has become much more important in day-to-day jewellery transactions. It is one of the key factors when determining the value of a diamond.
The colour of Diamond is due to the presence of nitrogen, boron and hydrogen, which causes irregularities in the crystal causes. Naturally coloured Diamonds can be very valuable.

The ideal colour is an absolute lack of colour, except in fancy colours of yellow, pink, blue, green, champagne and very rare red, where an intensive hue is an asset. A very precise scale of colour grading is in general use today in the diamond trade as defined by the GIA (Gemmological Institute of America). The grades are distinguished by letters of the alphabet, beginning with the letter D.

GIA COLOUR GRADING SCALE


    D to F: Colourless

    G to J: Near colourless

    K to M: Faint yellow

    N to R: Very light yellow

    S to Z: Light yellow

    Fancy Light yellow

    Fancy yellow

    Fancy intense yellow.


                                           


CLARITY:

Clarity describes how free the stone is from inclusions (internal objects) and blemishes (external marks) under magnification of x10. Almost all diamonds contain minute traces of non-crystalized carbon or small non-diamonds crystals, and is the Nature’s fingerprint making every diamonds unique. Their position is important as well as size and number and will affect the final prices of the diamond.

DEFINITIONS OF CLARITY GRADES ACCORDING TO INTERNAL DEFECTS



IF – Loupe clean. A diamond is termed loupe clean when an expert finds no internal defects with a x10 loupe.

VVS1 VVS2 – Very, very small internal defects which can be detected by an expert with a x10 loupe only with degrees of difficulty ranging from very considerable to great. Size, position and number determine the distinction between 1 and 2.

VS1  VS2 – Very small internal defects which can be detected by the expert  with degrees of difficulty ranging from not too difficult to easy.

S1 S2 – Small internal defects which are very easy for the expert to detected with a x10 loupe.

I1 – Internal defects which are very difficult for the expert to detect with a naked a eye.

I2 – Large and /or numerous internal defects which are easily detectable by the expert with the naked eye and which slightly diminishes brilliance.

I3 – Large and /or numerous internal defects which are very easily detectable by an expert with a naked eye and which diminishes brilliance. 


CUT:

The cut of a diamond, its proportions and symmetry are of extraordinary importance as they have the greatest influence on the brilliance, liveliness or sparkle of a stone. This is the one factor most directly influenced by man.
The most popular diamond shape is the round brilliant-cut which is based on specific optical calculations aiming at maximising beauty. Other shapes, such as the emerald-cut, oval pear, heart, princes-cut, and marquise, are referred to as “fancy cut”.




The cut and proportion of a stone in the diamond trade can be described as very good, good, medium or poor ‘make’.
When a diamond is ideally cut, light rays from all sides are bent towards the center of the stone and are reflected back through the top in a blaze of light.

 Here at CRED all our stones are guaranteed to come from legitimate sources and not funding civil wars and internal conflicts. We present the finest traceable diamonds to our customers insisting on excellence in cut, colour and clarity as well as ensuring that they are conflict free. This is why all our stones are sold with ‘denomination of origin’ verification. At the moment we source our stones from Australia, Canada and Namibia.

The main season for engagement rings has now started in the lead up to Christmas and Valentines’ day. So start browsing the website or call the shop for any further assistance in finding that perfect ring. And don’t forget our bespoke service if you can’t find exactly what you are looking for or if you want to create a ring of your owned design.